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慶典:2019全球旗袍邀請展

展覽地點:時裝館二樓

展覽時間:2019年9月29日 - 2019年11月20日

?序?
【前言】

旗袍是華人最具有代表性的女性服飾之一,在國際化的舞臺上,人們常常能看到穿著旗袍的曼妙身影。2017年起的杭州旗袍日活動,致力于將旗袍推向世界,成為聯結中外的一座橋梁。中國絲綢博物館在2018年成功舉辦第一屆全球旗袍邀請展的一年后,再次舉辦全球旗袍邀請展。
2019年,中華人民共和國迎來70周年華誕。展覽以“慶典”為主題,共邀請俄、英、法、韓、泰、捷克、加納及中國在內的十余個國家的全球設計師制作四十余件旗袍作品。設計師以旗袍為骨,設計為翼,將自己心中的各式慶典元素鋪灑在旗袍之上,創作出一件件精彩絕倫的作品。在這些作品中,我們看見十里紅妝的新嫁娘、征伐時尚的俏麗人、望眼東方的洋女郎,以及慶賀新中國誕辰70周年的一張張笑顏如花的臉。展覽將展示傳統旗袍新的可能性,為傳統旗袍在未來的傳承提供新的思路。這也是我們對2019國際博協提出的“作為文化中樞的博物館:傳統的未來”主題的一種詮釋。
Qipao is one of the most representative dresses of Chinese women. Women are dressing in Qipao all over the world in modern society. The Hangzhou Qipao Festival is working on introducing and using Qipao to connect the world since 2017. In 2019, China National Silk Museum hosts the second Global Qipao Invitational Exhibition a year after the first exhibition. 

China will have her 70th birthday in 2019. The exhibition themed in “Celebration”, has invited designers from over 10 countries to design over 40 Qipaos. Designers have used their talent and imagination to present diverse elements of “Celebration” on their design. From the Qipaos they created, we will meet a happy young bride, we can face a fashion office lady and beautiful wish for the birthday of China. This Exhibition will show the new possibility of fashion a traditional Qipao could have, and reconsider how traditional Qipao inherits in a new century. This exhibition is also an annotation to ICOM’s theme in 2019. 


第一單元 旗裙禮服/ The Party
【單元說明】
禮服,是慶典上永恒的主旋律。人們為以最美的姿態慶祝而身著各式各樣的盛裝,這些盛裝會是東方典雅的旗袍,也會是西方華麗的裙裝。當東方之美與西方之艷相遇,衍生出賢淑溫雅的東方旗袍、華麗跳脫的旗式禮裙、端莊俏麗的旗式正裝,在這一片光影交錯的宴會場上自信張揚地展現光彩。

Formal dress is the eternal theme of the celebration. People are wearing all kinds of dresses to show their most charming impression in celebration. These dresses may be the elegant eastern Qipao, or the gorgeous gown from the west. When the beauty of the east meets the beauty of the west, the elegant Oriental Qipao, the flowery jumping flag dress and the elegant flag dress are derived.


一、 旗袍風采
【展品文字】
1. 天圓地方 – 潘靜怡   Harmony – Helen Pun

? 作品介紹
作品以嫁衣為題,慶祝建國70年。《天圓地方》融合中西嫁衣的原素,橘紅色的旗袍閃耀著亮麗的人生,以其優雅的氣度混合西式拖尾長紗的氣派。拖尾長紗長達七米,以波浪鎖邊做層次,每10層一組共70層,立體花刺繡夾于每組中間,喻意70年拾級而上的光輝歲月,亦顯示我們中國人堅毅不屈、為未來的繁榮璀璨同心向前的精神。作品還創造性地使用了一對配在襟上的龍鳳扣,用上甲骨文的龍鳳兩字、分別配上圓及方形,以天圓地方的宇宙觀,喻意我們以堅固團結的根基順應環境的變動,體現家國和諧的理念。
Harmony seeks to weave the essence of Chinese and western cultures into this wedding gown. The red Qipao expresses the elegance and finesse of our tradition whereas the long train is stylistic of a western wedding dress. The red organza train, with ostrich feather trimmings, is seven meters long; filled with 70 layers of ruffles with Chinese embroidery in between; metaphoric of our 70th anniversary of the founding of the PRC and the gradual rise to prosperity. It seeks to express our indomitable and unyielding spirit and the harmony we have built over the years. A pair of dragon and phoenix embroidery placed as corsage on the Qipao, is designed to pay homage to our oracle bone script and is symbolic of a harmonious marriage. The concept of using round and rectangular shape for the dragon and phoenix embroidery is drawn from the eight trigrams and the hemispherical dome cosmology model in Chinese astronomy – the physical embodiment of the spherical heaven and the flat earth. This speaks of the wisdom of finding the right balance and harmony in a relationship and in a world of changes.
? 作者介紹
從藝前從事金融業。現為多媒體藝術家 - 習中國書法、水墨畫、油畫、陶瓷、雕塑、裝置、時裝設計及創作新媒體。畢業于澳洲皇家墨爾本理工大學; 英國赫爾大學。現專注為高訂時裝設計師,以多媒體及當代藝術原素注入她的服裝作品中。

A banker-turned artist, practices art in multi-disciplines - Chinese calligraphy & ink painting, oil painting, ceramics, sculpture, installation, fashion design and creative media. She holds a Master of Fine Art degree from the RMIT University, Melbourne (with distinction); and a MBA degree from the University of Hull, UK (with distinction). She is now a fashion artist, focusing on haute couture fashion designed with a fine art element.


2. 花綻苦難次第開 - 劉林溪  Flowers Bloom, Sufferings Disappear –Minrisot Liu


? 作品介紹
這是根據陪媽媽一起戰勝病魔的經歷創作的,也是為了慶祝母親順利度過難關。設計師在住院看護的階段里深切地體會到家人的陪伴,身體的堅強,以及積極的心態對每一個病人乃至每一個人的重要性。紅線表示親人之間的關心連結,鎖繡和埋金繡法繡在血管周圍,再以紙雕這種傳統工藝,表現擁有美麗花朵紋樣的心臟圖案,印花加上真實的美麗的鮮花,并用貼近膚色的真絲綃鼓勵病人們正視傷痕,以表示這是戰勝病魔的勛章。
這件旗袍不僅僅是為了呼吁每一個人都要擁有積極的心態面對病痛和折磨,面對生活中的挫折同樣如此,應將磨難視作花朵,用向上的態度迎接生活。一切痛苦都是美好的鋪墊,正所謂橋都堅固,隧道都光明,當你擁有了積極的心態后,你的世界也會如這件旗袍一樣,由內而外開出花朵。
這件旗袍,就是以設計師之名,為大家制作的榮譽狀,借此感謝國家強大的醫療技術,慶祝媽媽成功出院,更是慶祝每一個人戰勝困難的勇敢,每一個勇士都應該受到表彰。
This Qipao was made when I accompanied my mother to overcome her pain. This is also a gift to celebrate her recovery from the disease. When I looked after her in the hospital, I deeply felt that the company of one’s family, a powerful body and positive attitudes are essential to every patient and even everyone. I used red thread to symbolize the care and connection between families. Locked stitch and Panjin stitch (traditional Chinese embroidery technique) are adopted around the pattern of vessels. Paper engraving, one kind of traditional art, has been applied to illustrate the pattern of flowers-like heart. I used silk, whose color is close to skin to embroider a medal for those who overcame their pain and help the patient confront the diseases.
I designed this garment to appeal everyone to face the sufferings and difficulties and even to the setbacks with positive minds. They should see hardships as flowers and embrace their lives with positive attitudes. Happiness comes after all the sufferings. As the old saying goes, all the bridges are solid and all the tunnels are bright. Just like this Qipao, when you are positive, your life will bloom with flowers too. To show gratitude to powerful medical technology in China and to celebrate my mother’s recovery and everyone’ bravery to overcome their difficulties, I constructed this garment as the certificate of merit to honor everyone as every warrior should be honored.
? 作者介紹
四川成都人,上海視覺藝術學院時裝設計德稻實驗班大三學生。擅長用輕盈或是透亮的材質創造出多種多樣的視覺體驗。對美學的理解浪漫紛呈。

She comes from Chengdu, Sichuan. She is a student from Shanghai Institute of Visual Arts, Detao Masters Academy. She is good at using light and bright fabrics to create various kinds of visual experience. She has deep understandings of aesthetics and hopes to continue explore the area of Arts and Humanities.


3. 橄欖旗愿 - 李平蘭 Olive Wish – Pinglan Li

? 作品介紹
本款旗袍采用重磅正娟真絲面料,前襟用打籽繡橄欖花枝圖案,籍以祝愿我們的祖國繁榮昌盛,國泰民安,祈福世界和平。
This Qipao used Silk Textile, with the olive embroidery at the front, representing our country’s prosperity, and wishing peace for the whole world. 
? 作者介紹
東方美學倡導品牌衡韻雅序——首席設計師,致力于尋找一種傳統與現代同流貫脈的途徑,一種承繼發揚 并活化于當下的新東方風尚。

Chief Designer of Hamin Remix, she dedicated to the search for a coherence way of traditional and modern, to both inherit and develop a New Oriental Fashion. 


4. 麒麟玉書 - 吳妍儀 Jade Book and Kylin – Yen-I Wu

? 作品介紹
本嫁衣制作以改良式旗袍為外廓,大膽使用鹿港工藝師傅設計的麒麟玉書刺繡。依照麒麟的動態,胸口挖空呈現葫蘆形狀,整體以紅、白亮色布料左前、后高低回旋的銜接,玉書放在背面肩上,得以前后呼應,左前開叉裝飾紅色流蘇。“麒麟玉書”取吉祥瑞氣之意,在傳統中式的婚禮習俗中,新娘房的床頭會安一張麒麟符,祈求得麒麟子。本制作以大幅粵繡(潮繡)安置正面,色彩以金色為主,以手工繡出三角龍鱗片,五彩邊線為紙卷管,高凸部份內以棉花包蔥布。領子上的一對花扣,出自臺灣麗麗旗袍花扣師傅蔡蕊女士之手,衣缽傳承上海的手工方式制作,此雙色花扣從扣條上漿、埋鐵絲、縫合至花型拗線、曲線修飾,呈現精致秀雅之氣,以金、紅兩色呼應新嫁衣富貴之氣氛(粵繡提供:臺灣鹿港寅福繡莊)。
This is a modified Qipao dress with the design of Kylin and Jade book embroidery. Red and blue are the basic colors of the dress. “Jade book and Kylin” is representing the happiness and fortune. In the local traditions, bride’s bedside will need to stick an amulet of Kylin, praying for kids. 
? 作者介紹
巴黎凡爾賽藝術學院造型藝術系碩士畢業,現任職輔仁大學織品服裝學系專任助理教授。近期為布料實驗、設計、時尚畫探討,以關懷女性身體、人文、生態環境為主要議題。
She has lived in France for 7 years, planned and curated about 20 exhibitions. She is an assistant professor of the department of Textiles & Clothing, College of Fashion & Textiles, Fu Jen Catholic University. Her recent research is mainly about caring women’s body, humanity and ecotope.  


5. 女兒花嫁 - 吳伯玲  Daughter to Bride –Poling Wu

? 作品介紹
本作品是在人、衣、空間之中,以人的形體為起源,擴充形體之外的形體,在紗線浮空圍繞成型的空間中演繹著由女體(女性身體自主權)、血脈(延續生命的天職)、成長(花樣般的年紀出嫁)三個元素所構筑而成的嫁衣。深紅色的車線、大紅色的緞帶和蕾絲,增生成一塊面料,并且以環繞的方式構筑成一件旗袍領洋裝。兩種紅色為主色,傳遞了新舊血脈延續的訊息、并呈現出嫁衣的吉祥喜氣。在嫁衣的正背面處,各置入了一個由緞帶所構筑出的女體線條。散落的蕾絲花片則呈現出花樣般的待嫁女兒與母親之間的傳承,象征一個少女即將進入少婦的成長過程。
Using the shape of human as the origin, and expand a form other than it. The floating thread has created a dress that holds three elements of woman’s body, blood relationship and maturity. The different kinds of red pass messages of the happiness, blood relationship with mother and daughter, and the growing process of a new young bride has just become mature. 
? 作者介紹
英國諾丁漢傳德大學織品服裝系碩士畢業,現職輔仁大學織品服裝學系助理教授。近期專注研究從線性與無縫的角度切入,重新將服裝設計回到最基本的組成——線,用車縫技術創造3D結構,尋找無限變化的設計參數。

Master degree of Textiles & Clothing, now she working as the assistant professor of The Department of Textiles & Clothing, College of Fashion & Textiles, Fu Jen Catholic University. Her recent research focuses on the basic part of the clothes, which is the thread. Her research concentrates in the perspectives of seamless linearity, creating 3-dimentional structure by sewing.


二、旗式禮服
6. 多樣禮裙 Many in One– Ophelia Crossland

? 作品介紹
內裙是加納特有紋樣的短窄裙,披上紅色罩裙,背后優雅的小披肩,整體耀眼奪目,是慶祝宴上最顯眼的主角。施華洛世奇水晶組成的紋樣星星點點點綴腰間,是慶祝的焰火,綻放的玫瑰。設計師重點保留了旗袍元素中的立領要點以及盤扣特色,完美結合了中、西、加納的文化特色。
This is a dress include all different elements. With a short narrow skirt inside, and a red tunic outside, the whole dress presents an elegant temperament to be the main theme of the feast. There are some Swarovski crystals on the tunic, like the fireworks, or the roses. The collar uses the Qipao feature which blends in the Chinese gentle for the whole dress. 
? 作者介紹
泛非主義者,奢侈品設計師,妻子,兩個孩子的母親。她兼收并蓄的風格和設計反映了生活、樂觀和幽默,并飽含家族的致敬。她通過學習掌握了將色彩、面料和設計融合在一起的技巧,以此創造了許多杰出的作品。
A Pan-Africanist, a luxury fashion designer, a wife, and a mother of two.  Her eclectic style and design reflect life, optimism, and humor, while paying homage to her roots. Learning and eventually attaining mastery over colors, fabrics, and designs, she developed the skill of blending there three elements to create her masterpieces. 

7. 時尚戰袍 - Laichan

? 作品介紹
時尚是一場轟轟烈烈的戰斗,身上的服飾就是女性最出色的戰袍。艷麗的紅色透露出女性熱烈的美麗,金色裁邊則是優雅的表現。與傳統收身旗袍不同,緊致的剪裁的上身設計下,設計師釋放了裙擺,使女性行動時擁有更加舒適的空間。作品融合新潮與古典,吹響向時尚進軍的號角。
Fashion is another kind of war, and the dress will be women’s most outstanding armor. This dress tightened the upper body, but released the lower body so women will have more space when they are moving. The designer used read as the main color to show how passion a beauty can be, in the meantime, he also use the  gold cutting edge to present the elegance. 
? 作者介紹
新加坡時尚設計師,憑借出色的旗袍設計、對時尚的敏銳觸覺和對美與品質的執著追求,風靡當地時尚圈。他設計了令人驚艷難忘的各式晚禮服和婚紗,這些時尚作品結合傳統技術和新的風格影響的獨創性,給人以永恒舒適的視覺享受。
Lai Chan is a Singapore fashion designer, best known for his beautiful designs of the figure-flattering Chinese Cheong Sam, or the Qipao. With his refined fashion sensibilities and unwavering commitment towards beauty and quality, Lai Chan has earned a reputable name in the local fashion circuit.Lai Chan creates unforgettable, stunning pieces of evening gowns and wedding dresses. These fashion pieces are timeless, comfortable, and come about from ingenuity of combining traditional techniques and newer style influences.

8. 墨?色 - 周夢   I?N?K –Meng Zhou

? 作品介紹
本作品為旗袍式小禮服,以不同材質的黑色面料進行質感的對比,模擬水墨畫中深淺不一的“墨色”——以黑色蕾絲作為底色,以黑色緞帶進行結構分割,以黑色綃片裝飾分割線。
作品為不對稱設計,只有一片領子。一側衣身保持旗袍廓形,袖子為蕾絲質地旗袍式短袖;另一側衣身為時裝禮服廓形,側縫中拖曳出十二組螺旋形裙片,似展開的鳳尾;袖子為雪紡的禮服式長袖,肩部打褶,“盛開”著黑色的薄紗花朵,袖口的金屬中國結成為通體深深淺淺“墨色”中的一抹銀白。
This is a grown in the Qipao’s structure. It used different materials in the black colors to show the different  “Ink” in a ink painting. This dress is asymmetrical, there is a one-side collar. One side of the dress remains the Qipao structure is the short sleeve like a Qipao, the other side changes to the fashion gown’s structurewith a wide spread dress and a long sleeve. 
? 作者介紹
周夢,女,博士。中央民族大學美術學院教授,碩士研究生導師。兩項國家社科基金項目主持人。時裝設計作品多次參加時裝藝術國際展,作品《草?木?石》入選第13屆全國美展。

Meng Zhou, Ph.D. The professor and research supervisor of Fine Art College , Minzu University of China, the host of two program of The National Social Science Fund of China. Her designs have participated International Fashion and Art Exhibition. Her work “Grass?Tree?Stone” was selected to participated the China Fine Art Exhibition. 


9. 冇- 趙偉偉   MAO – Weiwei Zhao


? 作品介紹
材料:橡膠、紗、空氣
取自漢字“冇”,空無之意,作品嘗試探究無形介質——“空氣”對于時裝造型的改變。整個系列以平面裁剪的形式展現,通過充氣的形式將平面服裝變得立體生動,以此來詮釋中國傳統文化里的“有”跟“無”之間相互關系。
Material: Rubber, Yarn, Air
Inspired by the Chinese character“冇”, which means empty. This work tries to explore the change of fashion style by the invisible medium –“air”. This whole collection is presented in the form of plane cutting. Flat clothes become more three-dimensional and vivid by inflating. In order to interpret the relationship between “有” and “冇” in Chinese traditional culture.
? 作者介紹
畢業于中央美術學院時裝設計專業,曾多次獲得國內、國際時尚設計大賽金、銀獎項,作品多次參加北京時裝藝術國際展等藝術設計展覽,設計方向涉及皮草設計、皮具設計、首飾設計等。

Weiwei Zhao graduated from the fashion design department of Central Academy of Fine Arts. He has won several gold and silver awards in domestic and international fashion design contests. His works have participated in many exhibitions such as Beijing Fashion Art International Exhibition. He focuses on fur design, leather design, jewelry design and so on.


10. Mermaid Recall – 嚴宜舒  Yishu Yan

? 作品介紹
為此次展覽特別制作的《Mermaid Recall》的是基于我博士課題研究成果的新設計,設計構思是為現代美人魚制作一件新中式的旗袍嫁衣。作品用濃郁的中國紅色象征慶祝與喜悅,用特殊的針織物結構設計模擬水波紋及美人魚尾。面料肌理與彈性并存的特性使得其一面包裹住身體,另一面又因包裹被身體撐開,從而顯露出肌膚。伴隨著身體的運動,服裝在肌理與彈性、包裹與裸露、束縛與自由之間不斷游走,反思了旗袍、面料及穿著者之間的互動關系。
Mermaid Recall is a design based on the Ph.D project. The concept is to make a New Chinese style Qipao gown for a mermaid. The Red stands for celebration and joy in Chinese culture, the special knitted fabric design is a stimulation of wave and the tail of mermaid. This dress is showing diverse parts with body movements, struggling in tighten and freedom, reconsidered the interaction between Qipao and wearer. 
? 作者介紹
香港理工大學紡織及制衣學系博士研究生,主要從事針織材料創新與服裝設計研究。作品曾在多國各地區展出并獲獎。

PhD. Candidate in Fashion and Textile Design, HK PolyU. Her works have been awarded and exhibited in several areas of diverse countries. 


三、旗式正裝

11. Night Dress– Natali Ruden

? 作品介紹
經典的西式小禮裙配上蕾絲的中式旗袍立領成就了這件獨特的裙裝。設計師將中西方元素各取部分融入設計中。裙子使用了深藍代表夜空的色彩,其中閃耀著星光。蕾絲外套則是飄浮于空中暗色的云。
It is a classical western dress with a Chinese Qipao collar. The designer has taken elements from western and eastern fashion and put in her design. The basic color of the dress is the deep blue stands for the color of night sky, there are many stars shining inside. The black lace collar is the cloud floating around. 
? 作者介紹
原創設計師,性格外向。她來自基輔并曾就讀基輔著名的服裝設計學院,專門從事服裝設計。她選擇與母親同樣的職業以繼續家族事業。她喜歡她的工作,視其為使命。在設計中喜歡運用明亮的顏色,組合不同的材料。

Natali Ruden is a very unique original designer. She was born in Kiev, and studied in a famous fashion design school there. She loves her job and regard it as her mission. She loves to use bright color and challenges different materials in her design works. 


12. 慶鶴– Natali Ruden

? 作品介紹
熱烈的紅是中國傳統的喜慶顏色,而仙鶴更是傳統的中國代表吉祥的動物之一。在西方的正裝上結合以上中國的慶祝元素,我想打造的是一款跨越國際文化的空缺,在任何地區都能明白的慶祝服飾。
Red is a traditional celebration color in Chinese culture, and crane is an animal stands for happiness in China. I want to put those Chinese celebration elements in a Western formal dress, so all people will know this is a dress for celebration. I want this dress to cross the barrier of language or region, passing a happy message for everyone. 
? 作者介紹
原創設計師,性格外向。她來自基輔并曾就讀基輔著名的服裝設計學院,專門從事服裝設計。她選擇與母親同樣的職業以繼續家族事業。她喜歡她的工作,視其為使命。在設計中喜歡運用明亮的顏色,組合不同的材料。
Natali Ruden is a very unique original designer. She was born in Kiev, and studied in a famous fashion design school there. She loves her job and regard it as her mission. She loves to use bright color and challenges different materials in her design works. 


13. 映翠 - 洪秀柱

? 作品介紹
沉穩的翠色與明亮的淺綠相結合,展現了一片柔和與華貴的生機。外罩的斑斕五彩宛若花園給人以視覺的美感。設計師曾穿著它出席慶典等重要場合,后藏于中國絲綢博物館。
The dress contains many kinds of bright and dark colors, showing greens in noble and lively ways. There are lots of colors on the cover like a garden. This dress is now collected in China National Silk Museum. 
? 作者介紹
出生于中國臺灣臺北縣(今新北市),祖籍浙江省余姚市(原屬余姚,現屬慈溪)。先后畢業于臺灣中國文化大學法律系,美國東北密蘇里州立大學(現杜魯門州立大學)教育碩士。中國國民黨首位女主席,曾多次訪問大陸地區。

Born in Taipei county, Taiwan province, China. She graduated from the law department of China Culture University in Taiwan and master of education in Northeast Missouri State University (now Truman State University). The first female President of the kuomintang (KMT), she has visited the mainland many times.


14. 夜色璀璨 - Ryan Lo

? 作品介紹
旗袍正裝通常以成年女性為主體,然而少女也應該擁有屬于自己年紀的青春又不失端莊的服飾。因此設計師設計了這款以少女為穿著目標設計的旗袍裙,擁有著蕾絲、閃片、衣帶和連衣裙等多種少女元素。
Qipao is usually wearing by adult women, which is not fit and fair for teenage girls. I think they should have a Qipao element dress for their age, so I design this dress contain elements like lace, bows, Qipao and dress, which are very popular in teen girls groups. 
? 作者介紹
香港設計師羅子皓,創立了同名品牌Ryan Lo,目前在倫敦發展。非科班設計師出身,但有著非常出色的理念和思考。
Hong Kong designer Lo tzu-hao founded his eponymous brand Ryan Lo, which is developing in London. He did not learn design in school, but he has a great sense and concept to fashion. 

第二單元 交融文化/ The Cultures
【單元說明】
作為最具有文化代表性的服飾,旗袍所蘊含的文化和傳統底蘊十分深厚。隨著世界交流不斷加深,中華傳統文化與世界各式文化有了交匯之處。旗袍,在設計師眼中不是僅能傳達單一文化的載體。來自海內外的設計師在慶典的主題下,結合文化異同,挑戰旗袍承載文化的極限,成功制作出許多貫穿古今、串聯中外的出色作品。

As the most representative cultural clothing, Qipao contains profound cultural meaning and traditions inside. While the communication of world become more often, the traditional Chinese culture gets chance to converge with other cultures all over the world. Qipao, from designers’ perspectives, will not remain as the carrier of a single culture. Under the theme of “celebration”, designers from the world, combined with cultural similarities and differences, challenged the limitation of Qipao, and successfully produced many excellent works throughout the ancient and modern times, connecting China and foreign countries.


一、傳統交融
15. Best of both world - Paulina Andreeva

? 作品介紹
這個設計的理念是融合中國傳統造型和俄羅斯裝飾。它象征著俄羅斯和中國文化與現代生活方式的融合。它代表了一個對自己國家的傳統感興趣,又與現代現實保持聯系的年輕女孩形象。
靈感的主要來源是用一種創新的方式進行的旗袍。旗袍的關鍵元素,如立領和裝飾緊固件,與俄羅斯傳統服裝特有的喇叭輪廓和褶裥混搭在一起。紅色與展覽的主題關聯,象征著喜悅、愛和慶祝。白色用于領子和鑲邊增添了裙子的清新感。這條裙子為特定場合設計,但也可以在日常生活中穿,以貫徹“每一天都很特別”的理念。
The dress is called "The best of both worlds". The concept of this design is a fusion of traditional Chinese shape and Russian ornament. It symbolizes the integration of Russian and Chinese culture with the modern lifestyle. It represents a young girl who is interested in traditions of her own country but stays in touch with the modern reality.
The main source of inspiration is Qipao. It was approached in an innovative way. The key elements of Qipao such as stand collar and decorative fasteners were mixed with the flared silhouette and pleats specific to the Russian traditional costume. The red color symbolizes joy, love and celebration, which relates to the topic of the exhibition. The white color, used for the collar and piping, gives the dress a fresh look. This dress is for special occasions but can also be worn in everyday life supporting the idea that every day is special.
? 作者介紹
寶琳娜來自于俄羅斯圣彼得堡的圣彼得堡工業設計學院。在校就讀時期,曾多次參加國際賽事與展覽。
Paulina Andreeva is a fashion design student of Saint Petersburg State University of Industrial Technologies and Design (SUITD) in Saint Petersburg, Russia. During the university years she has successfully participated in international contests and exhibitions. 


16. Aqua Fantasy - Seung-Eun Oh

? 作品介紹
設計的靈感來源于曙光,指的是一個蘊含著曲線與多重色彩的概念,作品的主題則是表現星輝與曙光相交映于天空。這是一套兩個部件的服裝,主顏色為蔚藍色,黃色的小外套覆蓋在蔚藍的裙子之上,裙子下擺繡有新曙光散落形象的珠飾。
The concept is “Aurora”, and the subject is “Stars and auroras pouring into the night sky”. This design is in the form of a jump suit. It’s also a two-piece design. The overall color is Cerulean blue. As with the above design, the points were yellow above and below. As above, the Aurora spills itself into pants to further maximize the Aurora’s effect. 
? 作者介紹
首爾女子大學學生。參與多場設計,并在教授指導下制作設計并參與各類活動。

College student of Seoul Women’s University, her works have participate several fashion events under her professor’s supervising. 


17. 質樸 – 月白*Labelhood

? 作品介紹
短款格子紋旗袍,對袖子進行了時尚改良,使穿著時更好的襯托肩部及臂部。
Short qipao in lattice patern with modified fashionable sleeves so they will fit better fot the shoulders and arms. 
? 作者介紹
月白與labelhood合作的系列。這是一次跨品牌之間的聯手,打造旗袍設計的時尚盛宴。
The collarboration series between two designers, and also two brands. They work together for a fashion gala of Qipao. 

18. 軍綠 – 月白*Labelhood


? 作品介紹
短款軍綠色旗袍,對袖子進行了時尚改良,使穿著時更好的襯托肩部及臂部。
Short qipao in army green colory with modified fashionable sleeves so they will fit better fot the shoulders and arms. 
? 作者介紹
月白與labelhood合作的系列。這是一次跨品牌之間的聯手,打造旗袍設計的時尚盛宴。

The collarboration series between two designers, and also two brands. They work together for a fashion gala of Qipao. 


19. 髦兒戲 - 陳昕琰 Peking Opera - Sissy Chen

? 作品介紹
這次的主題我選擇的是中國傳統文化——京劇。靈感是來源于電影《霸王別姬》,我被這部電影中的光影效果所打動,幾處鋪天蓋地的大紅色調,幾乎能把銀屏點燃。服裝的裝飾圖案是根據京劇中旦角的基本手勢動作進行變化發展的,將手勢的形態進行抽象化處理,這個抽象化出的圖案是對中國傳統文化“形韻”的表達。服裝材質上利用了古老悠久的羊毛氈技術,用這種技術制作的圖案不會有很強的輪廓感,可以營造一種山水畫作朦朧的美感,從而去呼應電影中的光影和色調。刺繡的部分利用了鎖針繡針法,蔓延盤浮在服裝上的鎖針繡對圖案起到了一定的裝飾作用,使圖案有了體量感。
The theme that I have chosen is Beijing Opera, Chinese traditional culture. I am inspired by the movie “Farewell My Concubine” and deeply touched by lighting effects in it. Red can be seen everywhere in the movie, almost lightning the screen. Decorative patterns are evolved and abstracted from the basic finger movements of female roles in Beijing Opera. The abstracted pattern is the expression of Chinese traditional culture “shape of rhyme”. I selected wool felting technique to avoid rigid lines. I intended to create a kind of hazy feeling just like landscape painting to echo the lighting and hue in the movie. I used decorative lockstitch on the embroidery that has also made the motif more three dimensional.
? 作者介紹
陳昕琰,上海視覺藝術學院服裝設計大三學生。兩次為SIRLOIN品牌時裝秀后臺工作,曾在STAFFONLY工作室實習。

A student from Shanghai Institute of Visual Arts, Detao Masters Academy, has been awarded third-class scholarship. She was a backstage helper for SIRLON fashion show twice, also an intern for STAFFONLY Studio. 


20. 好一朵美麗的茉莉花 – 余嫿


? 作品介紹
來自香港的祝賀祖國70周年誕辰。靈感來源于1997年6月30日香港回歸祖國的交接儀式上,中國軍樂隊演奏的第一首樂曲,江蘇民歌——《好一朵美麗的茉莉花》。
A wish from Hong Kong, celebrates the 70th birthday of China. The inspiration is the first music playing at the ceremony of Hong Kong return in 1997, “Jasmine”.
? 作者介紹
熱愛設計和藝術。畢業于香港理工大學設計學院設計碩士和時裝設計學士。2011年獲選香港十大杰出青年。
Loves design and arts. Graduated from Hong Kong polytechnic university with a master's degree in design and a bachelor's degree in fashion design. In 2011, she was selected as one of ten outstanding young people in Hong Kong.


二、技藝交流

21. 首爾之夜 - Hye-In Song
? 作品介紹
作品靈感來源于首爾之夜。首爾的夜晚比其他任何城市城市熱鬧,夜景也更加美麗。聚焦于夜晚的明亮燈光,作品的設計主題產生了:閃爍于街道的霓虹燈、夜間繁忙的工作者,以及首爾塔。設計中加入了韓國元素,使用了“jokagbo”(韓國傳統文化板)作為補丁細節。
What I am inspired by is Seoul Night. The night of Seoul is busier than any other city, and the night view of Seoul is more beautiful than any other city. I focused on the bright lights at night. The neon signs shining on the streets, the busy workers at night, and the “Namsan Tower” became my design motif. 
I want to include Korean elements in the design, so I used “Jokabo” (Korean traditional slabs) and knots.
? 作者介紹
首爾女子大學學生。參與多場設計,并在教授指導下制作設計并參與各類活動。

College student of Seoul Women’s University. She and her works have participated in several fashion events under her professor’s supervising. 


22. 合奏之繡 – Ashdeen Lilaowala

? 作品介紹
ASHDEEN品牌創造手工刺繡紗麗和時裝的靈感來自東方。對于全球的旗袍展覽,設計師認為將中國和印度的元素融合在一起可以創造出很理想的旗袍紗麗裙。
設計師在一個旗袍的輪廓上創作,其中上身為完全刺繡與暗色調,下面的褶裥采用印度錦緞絲綢。披在肩上的紗麗面板用透明硬紗面料制成,上面繡滿了鳥和花,菊花、牡丹、玫瑰與仙鶴和天堂鳥交織在一起,充滿了異國情調,這件旗袍的目標是無縫地融合兩個古老的刺繡傳統,創造一個現當代的合奏之美。
At ASHDEEN, we create hand-embroidered saris and fashion inspired by the Orient. For the Global Qipao exhibition, we thought it would be ideal to amalgamate the Chinese and Indian elements to create a Qipao-Sari dress. 
We plan to create a Qipao silhouette in which the upper body will be fully embroidered with tonal shades. The below drape will be with an Indian brocade silk. The sari panel, which is draped over the shoulder, will be done in Organza fabric. It will be fully embroidered with exotic birds and flowers. Chrysanthemums, peonies, roses will be intertwined with flying cranes and birds of paradise. Our goal is to seamlessly blend two ancient embroidery traditions to create a modern, contemporary ensemble.
? 作者介紹
紡織品設計師,他的品牌通過創作當代時尚,專注于帕西加拉刺繡的傳統藝術。他的作品在新德里的旗艦店內零售,眾多名流都曾穿過他制作的莎麗服。

Ashdeen Z. Lilaowala is a Textile Designer specializing in the traditional art of Parsi Gara embroidery through contemporary fashion creations under his label ASHDEEN. Ashdeen retails his creations through his flagship store in New Delhi. His saris have been worn by Oprah Winfery and Bollywood superstars Madhuri Dixit and Sonam Kapoor Ahuja.


23. 錦繡印月 - 張義超

? 作品介紹
“紅艷裊煙疑欲語,素華映月只聞香。剪裁偏得東風意,淡薄似矜西子妝”
在蒙蒙細雨中,找尋屬于自己內心的獨一無二的美麗,承載江南文化的那份寧靜,與牡丹比鄰而居。
這一婚嫁旗袍的材料選擇了色織真絲織錦緞為材料,以大面積金色為設計因子,輔以藍,紅細線條,一切緣份皆一根根線條而緊密相連。在萬物中,金碧輝煌中有牡丹之花的花語,還有湖中三潭印月,與日月相連。猶如一幅畫卷,是西湖曼妙的景致。同時寓意世界文化與中國傳統文化的連接,使中國文化走向世界。作品采用了中國的傳統手工推繡與西湖文化相融合,寄予錦繡中華和美麗江南的息息相關。通過金色的色彩,富貴牡丹,表達未來的美好向往與祝愿!
Finding the own beauty in the drizzle and living with the peony. This Qipao is using gold color with blue and red lines stands for the connections of cultures and karma. The Westlake patterns are hand-made embroidery, showing the pretty sights of Southern Yangtze. The golden color and the peony are traditional Chinese symbols for wishes, wish our country will get better and better in the future. 
? 作者介紹
張義超畢業于浙江絲綢工學院服裝設計專業,后從事服裝設計和開發工作,期間參加一些服裝設計比賽,獲得各類獎項。創辦了杭州薰香服飾有限公司和杭州香舍服飾有限公司,任總經理和設計總監,主持“薰香”、“玫瑰香舍”、“CiCiCi西西可”三個品牌的設計工作。

Yichao Zhang graduated from Zhejiang Sci-tech University. She is a fashion designer, has received lots of awards. She also creates 3 brands and is the chief designer of those brands. 


24. 海峽群島針織旗袍 - 兩國多地合作

? 作品介紹
我們在Beth老師的傳統歐洲針織工坊里學習并制作了英國群島海峽地區(Channel Island)的Gansey毛衣。這一次,我們結合所學,為此旗袍項目虛擬出一個中國女孩旅行至北英國漁民島的場景。她受到當地民間毛織文化的啟發,為自己制作一件融合了英國漁民毛衫風格的中國旗袍,以作旅行紀念。她選用了漢代畫像磚的捕魚圖作靈感,重新編排在旗袍周身,凸顯地域風格的交融感。我們進入她的思維,為她達成心愿。
At our knitting workshop, we learned about the Gansey knitting culture in the Channel Islands. We imagine a Chinese girl who travelled there and impressed by the knitting craft and wool of the fishing communities.  She decided to knit a bridal outfit for her own wedding – a qipao with Chinese patterns. The patterns she chose are mythical images of fishes from the Han Dynasty images. We dived into her thoughts, did the knitting job for her. On the cold windy island, the chunky Qipao would be her special dress, showing her Chinese identity and adaptation of the local craft.
? 作者介紹
Beth Brown-Reinsel,美國,2019年中國絲綢博物館女工傳習館歐洲傳統針織工作坊特邀老師。Beth老師兼本次旗袍項目的工作顧問。
張西美,中國香港,中國絲綢博物館女工傳習館工作坊工作顧問。張西美老師兼本次旗袍項目的工作協助。
郭江,服裝設計師,中國美術學院畢業。
嚴宜舒,香港理工大學時尚與紡織設計專業在讀博士,針織方向。
張虹,中國江蘇,手工編織愛好者,郭江的母親。
胡友玉,中國香港,歐洲傳統針織工作坊助教。
Beth Brown-Reinsel, USA, instructor for CNSM 2019 Textile Workshop:  European Traditional Knitting Workshop, advisor to Qipao project
Edith Cheung Sai May, Hong Kong, consultant for CNSM Textile Workshop, co-ordinator
Guo Jiang, fashion designer, graduate of China Academy of Art
Yan Yishu, PhD. Candidate in Fashion and Textile Design, HK PolyU,
Zhang Hong, Guo Jiang’s mother, an accomplished knitter

Hu Yiu Yu, Hong Kong, (knitting workshop teaching assistant)


三、面料交織

25. 阿富汗之舞Afghan Dress – Zarlashta Jalalzai

? 作品介紹
設計師向設計一件當代阿富汗的服裝。緊身胸衣和袖子的下半部都有阿富汗傳統婚禮上仍然使用的傳統刺繡工藝。希望裙子的設計與傳統不同,添加了一些西方的顏色。因此裙子整體用傳統的阿坦舞中使用的方巾制成,色彩艷麗,有如絲綢一般顏色漂亮。其中珠飾是手工制作的。這是一件混合了西方的色彩和傳統阿富汗服裝作品。縫合由手工完成,最后以縫紉機連接。
I wanted to design a piece of contemporary Afghan clothes. The bodice and the lower parts of the sleeves are all traditional embroidery which is still used in traditional weddings of Afghanistan. I wanted the skirt to be designed differently from the original ones and I wanted to add some western colors to it. So I made the whole skirt from the kerchiefs that are beautifully colored and resembles silk. Those kerchiefs are used during the traditional dance atan. The bead work is also done by hand. I wanted to introduce a piece of traditional afghan clothing with a mixture of western colors. I sewed all by my hands and only combined them all with a machine. The jewelries are also traditional Afghan jewelries.
? 作者介紹
設計師和裁縫。她在8年級因為戰爭離開喀布爾和她的學校去了加茲尼省,開始縫制衣服。在加茲尼住了三年之后,她由于父親過世回到喀布爾。她決定開一家自己的店,培訓年輕女孩的設計和時裝。
Zarlashta lalzai is a designer and tailor. She left Kabul as well as her school in 8th grade and went to ghazni province because of the war and started sewing cloths there. She then decided to open a place of her own to train young girls in designing and fashion.


26. 青金白衣 White Dress – Zarlashta Jalalzai

? 作品介紹
白衣的設計靈感來自于設計師從中國、中國人民和中國古代歷史中獲得的信息。中國制作服飾總是采用最漂亮的面料,比如絲綢,因此設計了一件繡有天藍色寶石和銀色金屬的白色絲綢連衣裙。設計師首先在阿富汗當地購買了絲綢的面料,之后獲得其他部分的材料完成心中的設計。
The designing idea of the white coat came from the information that I had from china, the people of china and the ancient history of china. What I knew was that they always used the most beautiful fabrics for instance, silk. This made me think of a dress made of white silk with embroidery, azure stones and silver colored metal on it. First, I purchased the fabric which they told me is silk, however, I exactly do not know what percentage is really silk. Then I purchased the rest of the materials. After, I had all the materials, I started to make the design I had in my mind.
? 作者介紹
設計師和裁縫。她在8年級因為戰爭離開喀布爾和她的學校去了加茲尼省,開始縫制衣服。在加茲尼住了三年之后,她由于父親過世回到喀布爾。她決定開一家自己的店,培訓年輕女孩的設計和時裝。
Zarlashta lalzai is a designer and tailor. She left Kabul as well as her school in 8th grade and went to ghazni province because of the war and started sewing cloths there. She then decided to open a place of her own to train young girls in designing and fashion.

27. Thai-Lamphun – Chombongkod Pattanawit

? 作品介紹
這件衣服的設計靈感來自于一位在泰國出生和長大的(泰籍)華裔設計師,因此這件作品完美地融合了泰中兩種文化。中國的傳統旗袍的設計形式結合泰國南奔絲綢面料,向我們展現了兩國美麗文化的獨特魅力。(注:南奔是泰國北部一個地名,以盛產傳統泰絲綢為名)備。
This dress is combining the cultures of Thailand and China. The traditional Qipao structure with the material from Thailand Lamphun, shows how charming both the cultures are.  
? 作者介紹
“Chombongkod”品牌由泰國時裝設計師Chombongkod Pattanawit女士創立。她畢業于泰國Kalawin學院服裝設計專業。在近40年的時尚領域,專注于新娘禮服、泰國禮服、卡拉禮服和特殊禮服設計。她的作品還在泰國、美國、法國和英國等不同的時裝秀上展出。
“Chombongkod” brand was originated by Ms.Chombongkod Pattanawit, Thai fashion designer. She was graduated from Kalawin Institution, Thailand in the field of fashion design. She was an instructor in fashion design in Supranee institution, Bangkok, Thailand. Throughout almost 40 years in the field of fashion, Chombongkod specializes in bridal dress, Thai dress, Kala dress and special event dress. Her works were published in several magazines. Her workpieces were also shown in various catwalk events such as in Thailand, USA, French, and UK.  


第三單元 旗解風尚/ The Fashion

【單元說明】
傳統旗袍自19世紀初起慢慢定型,在當時打破了封建保守的舊制,引領新潮。也許正因為如此,即使在以一種廓形為大眾接受的現在,旗袍也從未守在一方框架之中,設計師放飛靈感,沖擊古典、撞碎廓形的壁壘,重新解讀旗袍蘊含的時尚潛能。當傳統旗袍與摩登碰撞,當新式旗袍成為席卷世界的新風尚,這將會是一場以旗袍衍生的時尚界慶典。
Back to the 19th century, when Qipao first broke all the old regulation, it lead a new fashion to the society. Even in modern, Qipao is still not satisfied to remain in a typical shape. The fashion designers are using their inspirations to break through all the wall and structures, to reinterpret the potential possibility of fashion in a Qipao. When tradition meets modern, Qipao is once again becoming a new fashion to the society, celebrating the Qipao’s legend. 


一、藝術之歌

28. 陰陽之境 - Hana Hevelkova

? 作品介紹
結合明與暗,陰與陽,對立又交融達成和諧。在這明暗夾縫中,紅色如同是一道將兩側分開的境界線,同時又巧妙地把兩者緊鎖。在空間中有紛紛飛騰起的群鳥,為靜謐的陰陽作品增添不一樣的生機。這是自然在每一天黃昏之時的特色慶典。
This dress has combined brightness and darkness harmoniously, just like Yin and Yang in Taichi. The red line is a line that divide the two sides but in the meantime locked them together to create a space, in that space there are birds flying around, make the whole dress become more vivid. This is a special celebration the nature has everyday during the dusk. 
? 作者介紹
出生于布拉格,以晚禮服和婚紗設計聞名。她的設計受到上個世紀的建筑的巨大影響——立體主義、功能主義、建構主義和包豪斯。她的作品以高貴、精確闡述與優雅的女性線條為特點。
Born in Prague. The architecture of the past century has influenced her at most - cubism, functionalism, constructivism, and Bauhaus .Her cloths exceed of evident nobleness, precise elaboration with the feeling for elegant feminine lines. She is well known for evening and wedding dresses.


29. Qipao of Love - Angelo Cruciani

? 作品介紹
這是一件象征愛與柔情的旗袍,如同一面旗幟呼喚并將愛作為最美的裝飾。心形是一個通用的標志,代表著團結與集會。中國流行歌手的情歌是Angelo Cruciani設計這件旗袍的靈感來源。幾乎所有中國歌曲都是以情感為主題。如同每位女子渴望的關注一樣,愛是世界的中心,同時也是使每位女子都散發如同阿芙洛狄忒(愛的女神)一般光彩的護身符。
This is meant to be the Qipao of sweetness and tenderness like a flag that calls out love as the most beautiful decoration. The heart is a symbol of unity and gathering, the heat is a universal message. Angelo conceived this work listening to the great love songs of the Chinese Popstars. The theme of feelings characterizes almost all Chinese songs, love as the center of the world, central like the attention that every woman desires. A fabric talisman that makes every woman feels like Aphrodite: the goddess of love. 
? 作者介紹
出生于1978年的意大利藝術家和時裝設計師,從小就夢想著成為一名時裝設計師。1995年,他在意大利烏爾比諾開始了他在時尚界的職業生涯。加入新銳品牌Yezeal后,設計師走上了一條基于愛和積極向上的創新之路。
An Itlian Artist and Fashion Designer born in 1978 in the countryside, he has been dreaming to be a fashion designer since he was young. His career in the fashion industry started in 1995 in Urbino, Italy, while attending the prestigious “Scuola del Libro”. The recently-created brand “Yezeal” grew fast in celebrity and Angelo entered a new path of creativity, based on love and positivity.  


30. 人與花無彩與彩 - 景宇鵬  Human &Flower   Monochrome&Color– Naci Jing

? 作品介紹
在一些地區,戰火仍未平息,城市被摧毀。當地居民慶祝的,是我們看來可能只是一些微不足道的事情。中國也有著令人心痛的曾經,如今的繁榮與和平來之不易,我們更應該懂得珍惜。我將無彩色與有彩色結合,希望大家銘記過去,珍惜現在!
旗袍采用黑色與白色半透明真絲面料,運用面料復合與刺繡工藝展現。
There are still flames of war in some regions where cities have been destroyed. People in these regions are celebrating things that are trivial in our eyes.Our country also has sorrowful history. Prosperity and peace we have gained today have not come easy so we should cherish that.I combined achromatic colors with chromatic colors to show that we should remember the past and treasure what we have today.
The fabric of my Qipao is two layers of translucent silk, black and white. Fabric bonding and embroidery technique have been applied in my garment.
? 作者介紹
1998年出生于中國山西省;服裝設計師、原畫插畫師;擅長雕塑、雕刻、刺繡等手工藝;熱愛藝術創作;現就讀于上海視覺藝術學院德稻實驗班。
Naci Jing,who was born in Jiangxi,China in 1988. He is a fashion designer and a concept artist. He is a junior student in SIVA Detao advanced class and devotes himself to art and design. He is also good at sculpture,engraving,embroidery arts and so on.


31. 七個“十” - 虞靖怡  Seven Crosses– Joy Yu

? 作品介紹
旗袍最初的靈感來源于當代抽象藝術家丁乙的畫作《十示》系列。設計師提取了畫中的顏色,再加入了熒光系的年輕顏色,將新興的PVC面料和膠注切割面料雙層疊加,通過彩線刺繡來將兩者材料貼合做成新面料,同時個人設計了全新的繡法和工藝,使得傳統旗袍具有現代未來感。丁乙先生的作畫風格代表了典型的堅韌不拔、自強不息的中國精神,多數作品都描繪了他對生長的這片土地和歷史變遷的感慨、沉思、祝福、慶賀。人們透過“十示”亦體會到一個奮進、欣欣向榮又充滿故事的中國。“十示”已然成為中國當代藝術的一個標識。大大小小各色的“十字”既向丁乙先生致敬也代表了我國發展大大小小、日新月異的變化,中國人民在一步一個腳印的奮斗中苦盡甘來。
The original inspiration of my Qipao comes from the painting “Appearance of Crosses” by Yi Ding, a contemporary artist of abstraction in China. I extracted the color from the painting and added some fluorescent colors. I combined two layers of fabric: PVC and adhesive cutting fabric, adopting colored thread embroidery technique to make my new fabric. Meanwhile, I created my own embroidery and technique to inject a contemporary style into traditional Qipao. One end of the embroidery thread was stitched to the fabric and another end was kept loose and decomposed into traditional tassels. The shape of embroidery is related to the idea of symmetry which Chinese people traditionally pursued. The colors are well-proportioned and cascaded, looking like modern abstracted version of peony, the national flower of China and deliver the meaning of auspiciousness.
The painting style of Ding represents typical Chinese spirit, which is hard-working, persistent and resilient. Most of his paintings demonstrated his feelings, reflections, blessings and celebrations of the soil that nurtures him and historical changes he has felt. Through “Appearance of Crosses”, we can see that China is forging head, prosperous and full of stories. His painting has become a symbol of Chinese contemporary art. Embroidering crosses in different sizes and colors is my way to show respect to Mr. Ding. It also symbolized that China is changing with each passing day and Chinese people are working steadily, having a happy life after all those sufferings.
? 作者介紹
就讀于上海視覺藝術學院德稻大師班葛特立工作室。愛好色彩系的設計及簡雅風格,把Karl Lagerfeld 和Alber Elbaz作為自己的時尚偶像,并樂于接受和學習各種藝術風格。
Joy Yu studies at Shanghai Institute of Visual Arts, Detao Masters Academy, Studio Gottelier. She loves colorful and elegant design. She has regarded Karl Lagerfeld and Alber Elbaz as her fashion icons and is willing to accept and learn different kinds of styles of art.


32. 重嵐疊嶂?墨染旗袍 - 龔航宇

? 作品介紹
通過潑墨的手法,讓黛色浸染的山峰與碧水相連,使穿云見月的手法再現布匹的肌理之上。一側斜肩設計,如斷崖襯托山峰陡斜,另一側長袖如風,瀟灑隨意,如潑出去的墨。
設計師用抽象寫意的手法對傳統旗袍做了一次顛覆性的結構重組,讓流動的立體造型代替鑲邊,局部的造型鑲嵌歸攏了無限寫意流淌的墨韻,點睛又不枯燥。
This pattern links the mountain and water together by splashing ink. The shoulder slope on one side represents the cliff and mountain slope. The long sleeve on the other side is like the ink was splashed. 
Designer has reengineered the structure of traditional Qipao. Using the contouring to replace the normal embroiders, and showing the flowing ink in part of the dress to make the dress looks fascinating and inviting. 

? 作者介紹
香黛宮首席設計師、國家龍騰獎十杰設計師、旗袍文化國際交流大使,世界華人杰出工美大師。畢業于武漢大學,之后到韓國和法國學習服裝設計,青年時代游學近40個國家。
Hangyu Gong is the chief designer of Chantel Gong, International presenter of Qipao Culture. She was graduated from Wuhan University, and then studied aboard to South Korea and France in Fashion design. 

二、廓形之變

33. 云裙 – Phoebe English

? 作品介紹
考慮到可持續性,我們一直致力于在工作室中創造盡可能少的浪費,所以我們將竹絲剪下的部分融入到絲綢歐根紗中,參考傳統旗袍的絲綢。我們用白色來代表西方婚禮文化的傳統色彩。
Working with sustainability in mind, we always aim to create as little waste as possible in the studio so we have incorporated off cuts of bamboo silk, trapped inside silk organza to reference the silk of a traditional Qipao. We have made it in white to represent the traditional colour of our own Western wedding culture.
? 作者介紹
高檔女裝和男裝品牌, 服裝的制作講究精確和美觀。艱苦的建筑形成了設計精神的中心,包含了對精加工和紡織品的毫不妥協的關注。通過對失傳、遺忘或很少使用的技術的復興,希望能喚起人們對建筑而非裝飾的尊重,為年輕的倫敦設計帶來新的維度。

PHOEBE ENGLISH is a luxury Women swear and Menswear label. Garments are created with attention to precision and beauty. Laboured construction forms the centre of the design ethos, which embraces an uncompromising attention to finishing and textiles. PHOEBEENGLISH hopes to raise a respect for construction rather than decoration and bring a new dimension to young London design. PHOEBE ENGLISH is exclusively made in England.


34. 風衣旗素 –楊桂東 Samuel Guiyang

? 作品介紹
這是一款從現代出發的創新式作品,其中融入了現代的風衣外形與旗袍的立領特色。干凈利落的設計和古典優雅的氣質在這件服裝中一覽無余。同時這也是一件對現代服裝的可發展性元素的探索的成果。
This is a modern work of creativity. This dress is using the shape of coat and the collar of Qipao to explore the potential elements fashion can have in a dress. The dress is smooth and clean in look, as well as an elegance of feeling inside the dress. 
? 作者介紹
楊桂東是SAMUEL Guì YANG品牌的創立人,85后的年輕設計師。
SAMUEL Guì YANG (1988, China). Multi disciplinary design studio based in London. Garments, objects and printed matter.

35. 疊 - 呂越

? 作品介紹
作品《疊》利用絲網印技術,錯開定位的蝴蝶圖案,經過縫紉出現層層疊疊的效果,旨在表現不斷變化的世界。可謂:“這個世界唯一不變的就是時時刻刻的變化”。
Via screen printing technique and mismatching the butterfly patterns, after sewing then resulted with the layered effect. It is to emphasise the changing world, like the saying, “the only unchanging thing is the change itself”.
? 作者介紹
呂越是教授、設計師、藝術家、策展人,中央美術學院時裝設計創建人。她是中央美術學院教授,時裝藝術國家同盟首席副主席,中國美術家協會會員,中國美術家協會服裝藝委會成員,中國服裝設計師協會學術委員會主任委員,中國服裝設計師協會常務理事,中國流行色協會理事,時裝藝術國際展策展人。她的時裝藝術作品和時裝設計作品在多個展覽以及活動中展出,作品被多家機構和個人收藏。
LYU YUE (Aluna), Professor of Central Academy of Fine Arts( CAFA), Founder to Fashion Department, CAFA,Member of Chinese artists association, The chairman of the academic committee and managing director of China Fashion Association, Director of the China Fashion & Color Association, Curator of fashion art international exhibition. She has attainments in both fashion design and fashion art. Her works on fashion design and fashion art have been presented in more than 50 exhibitions and other activities, and collected by several institutions and individuals


36. 結 ? 金 – 劉君Jun Liu

? 作品介紹
作品體現對于科技概念的持續關注,同時圍繞當代和傳統展開思考,視覺上將材料語言和構成美學理念深度融合到時裝設計中,利用數千片切割的材料折疊再設計,將大小不同的單元通過復雜的連結技術創造出對比起伏的立體空間形態,賦予作品以通靈剔透的視覺藝術效果,使服裝通體如陽光下的礦物結金。
This Qipao was representing the continuously attention to the scientific concept. In the meantime, taking the thinking of contemporary and traditional, visual language and general materials constitute the aesthetic concept depth merged into the field of fashion design, use of thousands of pieces of cutting material folding design again, the links will be different to the size of the unit by complex technology to create the contrast of the three-dimensional space form, work with channeling and transparent visual art effect, make the garment component of mineral crystals, such as the sun.
? 作者介紹
劉君現任深圳職業技術學院藝術設計學院副院長、教授,中國美術家協會會員、深圳市服裝設計協會副會長;作品曾在國內外多地展出、獲獎,并有眾多作品被各個博物館收藏。
Jun Liu, the Vice-president and professor of Shenzhen Clothes Design Association. His works have been awarded, exhibited and were collected by multiple museums. 


三、潮流之選


37. Blue Dress - Francoise Hoffman

? 作品介紹
設計師這次帶來以毛氈和真絲結合的旗袍作品,完美展現了輕薄與濃厚、飄逸與從容的相輔相成,展現出沉穩地一派大氣。旗袍在真絲上使用印花圖案,并配以混合毛氈制成成衣。
Fran?oise Hoffmann: Felt interpretation of a Qipao.
Title: Blue Dress.
Hybrid felt: printed photo on silk and merinos wool.
©fran?oise Hoffmann
? 作者介紹
Francoise Hoffmann利用粗紡羊毛纖維和不同面料的混合,創造出了原創紡織品。通過對紋理、色彩和印花的處理,她拓展出了廣泛而多樣的藝術詞匯。幾年來, Francoise Hoffmann已經開始把她的攝影圖像融入到她的作品中,創造一種新的混合體。
Fran?oise Hoffmann creates original textiles using a mix of carded wool fibres and different fabrics. By playing with textures, colour and prints, she explores a wide and varied artistic vocabulary. For several years now, Fran?oise Hoffmann has started to create a new hybrid by integrating her photographic images into her work. She adds the vibrations of light kneaded into the fibres to her textile sculptures.


38. 橙之美 - Priscilla Shunmugam

? 作品介紹
這是一件時尚改良型旗袍,設計師以新潮的眼光對旗袍進行重塑,在大刀闊斧將旗袍向現代裙裝靠攏的同時又保留了旗袍特有的古典優雅。設計師認為展現女性曲線是旗袍最為出眾的理念,所以在所有的作品中都保留了這一收身的特點。
This is a fashion improving work of Qipao. Designer is looking through the perspective of fashion, and changing it to a modern dress but still keep the classical elegance of the Qipao. Designer believed that shining women’s body shape is what Qipao good at, so she keep this concept for almost all her design works. 
? 作者介紹
出生于馬來西亞吉隆坡,母親是中國人,父親是印度人。20歲時,她被新加坡國立大學錄取攻讀法律。畢業后,在離開律師行業之前做過一段短暫的律師工作。2008年,她在英國的一年留學期間學習了制衣和裁剪。
Shunmugam was born Priscilla Tsu-Jyen Shunmugam in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, to a Chinese mother and an Indian father. At age 20 she was accepted to read law at the National University of Singapore. Upon graduation, Shunmugam worked briefly as a lawyer before leaving the profession. In 2008, she spent a year in England, where she studied dressmaking and pattern cutting.


39. 旗袍新解 - Priscilla Shunmugam

? 作品介紹
設計師對旗袍時尚作出了與眾不同的詮釋。旗袍不止可以古典,也可以與時裝相結合。設計師保留了旗袍特有的曲線設計,同時為了強調臀部曲線,她特意添加了三層漸變小短裙作為點睛之筆。其余則以黑色蕾絲覆蓋淺粉作為主體,盡顯優雅。
The designer has made a unique interpretation to qipao fashion. Qipao can be classical, but also can combine with fashion dress. The designer kept the special curve design of qipao, at the same time, to emphasize the curve of buttocks, she deliberately added a small skirt with three gradations as the finishing touch. 
? 作者介紹
出生于馬來西亞吉隆坡,母親是中國人,父親是印度人。20歲時,她被新加坡國立大學錄取攻讀法律。畢業后,在離開律師行業之前做過一段短暫的律師工作。2008年,她在英國的一年留學期間學習了制衣和裁剪。
Shunmugam was born Priscilla Tsu-Jyen Shunmugam in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, to a Chinese mother and an Indian father. At age 20 she was accepted to read law at the National University of Singapore. Upon graduation, Shunmugam worked briefly as a lawyer before leaving the profession. In 2008, she spent a year in England, where she studied dressmaking and pattern cutting.


40. 純白 - Ms. Min

? 作品介紹
中國傳統形制的簡單潔白的連衣裙, 這是一件展現少女青春和純潔的時尚服飾。
Simple white dress in a Chinese tradition design. It is a fashion dress to present a young lady’s beauty and purity. 
? 作者介紹
Ms. Min由設計師劉旻創辦的時尚品牌,秉持著“簡約中顯豐富,柔和中帶剛毅,經典中求摩登”的設計理念,在海內外廣受歡迎。
Ms. Min is a fashion brand created by Min Liu. Her design concept is to showing the many in simple, strong in gentle, modern in classical. Her works impressed fashion people all over the world.


41. 碎花 - Ms.Min

? 作品介紹
少女時尚的另一系列。這件黑底碎花裙以黑色為基礎色襯托少女的成熟,但又以整裙的碎花展現青春少女特有的活潑。
Another series of young lady’s fashion. This floral dress chooses black as the basic color to reflect a mature girl but also presenting the lively youth with the flowers on the dress. 
? 作者介紹
Ms. Min由設計師劉旻創辦的時尚品牌,秉持著“簡約中顯豐富,柔和中帶剛毅,經典中求摩登”的設計理念,在海內外廣受歡迎。
Ms. Min is a fashion brand created by Min Liu. Her design concept is to showing the many in simple, strong in gentle, modern in classical. Her works impressed fashion people all over the world.


42. 月落翠柳間 - Samuel Guiyang

? 作品介紹
這是一件暗藏著許多小細節于一身的裙子,也是對多功能多部件合為一體件服飾的可能進行探索的成果。這件裙子包含著連衣裙、旗袍元素、小斗篷等多種不同的類型。乍一看似乎是無法融合的各類,但設計師巧妙的將其結合,成為一件無與倫比的時尚之選。
It is a dress with tons of details in side, and also this dress is a result of exploring the possibility of different clothes kinds combining in one. The dress has elements of one-piece dress, Qipao and cloak. It seems like those elements are impossible to combine, but they end up combining perfectly. 
? 作者介紹
楊桂東是SAMUEL Guì YANG品牌的創立人,85后的年輕設計師。
SAMUEL Guì YANG (1988, China). Multi disciplinary design studio based in London. Garments, objects and printed matter.
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